The humid air still hung heavy, a testament to the relentless downpour that had marked the beginning of our epic Rat Race Dominica Toe to Tip challenge. Day 1, starting at the picturesque Scots Head, had been a true baptism by fire – or rather, by water. The rain, a constant, drumming symphony against our waterproofs, had soaked every participant to the bone.

We were fortunate to be in the south, far from the localised flooding that had begun to plague the northern reaches of the island. As a member of the Rat Race crew, my role was multifaceted, but on that first sodden day, it felt primarily like a purveyor of warmth and comfort. Pit Stop 1 (PS1) was a welcome beacon, conveniently close to our guesthouse, allowing me to deliver a steaming cafetière of coffee, a small but significant luxury that brought immediate smiles and a renewed sense of purpose to the bedraggled but determined trekkers. The sense of accomplishment in overcoming the first day's challenges was palpable, inspiring us to continue our journey.

*Ready to begin the second most difficult challenge that Rat Race offers!*

Day 2: A Glimpse into the Emerald Heart

Day 2 continued with rain, though thankfully less severe. The relentless deluge of the previous day had eased to a persistent, but manageable, drizzle. This afforded me the precious opportunity to step out of the support vehicle and onto the trail for the first 5km with the participants. Trekking through the thick rainforest, the 'trail' was often more a suggestion than a clearly defined path, a route carved by the relentless growth and decomposition of the jungle. We needed to keep our wits about us, navigating over and through tangled undergrowth, our eyes peeled for the elusive crabs that scuttled amongst the leaf litter. The air was thick with the scent of damp Earth and verdant foliage, a sensory overload that was both invigorating and humbling. The beauty of the rainforest, with its lush greenery and diverse wildlife, was a constant reminder of the wonders of nature.

Leaving the group at PS1, our local guide, Jon, expertly navigated the increasingly challenging roads. The constant rain had caused some localised flooding, and fallen trees presented frequent closures, necessitating detours and a keen understanding of the island's less-travelled routes. Despite the obstacles, I arrived at the designated meeting point to a chorus of wet but spirited greetings. The surprise of the day – a decadent slice of cake – was met with enthusiastic cheers. We've found that keeping one small, unexpected treat for each pit stop is a brilliant way to keep morale high, especially when faced with such demanding conditions. Hydration was, of course, paramount, a constant refrain from Dr. Dan and the rest of the crew. It's not just about drinking copious amounts of water; it's about managing electrolyte intake. Most participants were getting through at least half a tube of 250mg electrolytes per day, a crucial element in preventing fatigue and cramping in such a hot and humid environment. The emphasis on safety measures, such as managing electrolyte intake and the importance of hydration, ensured that participants felt secure and well-informed.

Day 3: Towards the Interior and Ancient Traditions

Day 3 finally brought a welcome easing of the rain, a gentle reprieve that allowed the island to slowly shed its watery shroud. The group began to steer more northwards, deeper into the interior of the island, where the terrain promised even greater challenges and breathtaking vistas. As fatigue inevitably began to take hold, a few members received a strategic boost from the pit stops, opting to bypass some of the more complex sections. This isn't a sign of weakness; it's a pragmatic approach to a multi-day challenge, ensuring they could still enjoy the incredible environment and the personal achievement of pushing their limits within their own capacities. These strategic boosts, which included shorter routes or additional rest time, were a testament to the importance of self-awareness and the crew's commitment to the well-being of every participant.

The day culminated in a magical finish at the UNESCO World Heritage site of Emerald Pool. The cool, inviting waters were a perfect balm for weary muscles, and we spent a tranquil hour watching the vibrant Bananaquits flit among the foliage and the iridescent Blue-headed Hummingbirds darting gracefully. The jungle here, a mere fraction of Dominica's total forested area (which stands at approximately 60% of the island's landmass, with about 27,000 hectares classified as primary forest), still teemed with life.

From the Emerald Pool, we journeyed to Kalinago Barana Aute, a cultural village offering an immersive experience with the indigenous Kalinago people. Dominica is unique in the Eastern Caribbean for still being home to a significant population of Kalinago, who represent the last remaining pre-Columbian Carib Indians. While their numbers have diminished due to historical intermarriage and westernisation, an estimated 2.9% of Dominica's population identifies as Kalinago, roughly 3,000 individuals, many residing within their protected territory on the east coast. Camping here, nestled within our free-standing mosquito nets, listening to the rhythmic crashing of the waves was an experience surpassed only by the shaman ritual. This ritual, taking place by firelight in a tranquil pool above the roaring sea, involved a series of traditional dances, chants, and blessings that symbolically cleansed us in their ancient cultural traditions, a profound moment that deeply connected us to the island's rich heritage and the resilience of its first inhabitants.

TrailMed in Action: The Unseen Support

As a member of the Rat Race crew, I worked closely with our expedition Doctor, Dan, and supported him in daily clinics and necessary interventions. This largely involved foot care – the constant dampness and challenging terrain are a recipe for blisters and abrasions. However, we also provided support for medical interventions following slips and falls. While most injuries were minor, the remoteness and complexity of the environment, combined with the often-limited standard of medical facilities on the island, underscored the vital importance of having an experienced clinician as part of the crew.

Dominica's healthcare system, while offering basic public services, can be stretched, particularly in rural areas. The main hospital, Princess Margaret Hospital in Roseau, is the most equipped, but access to highly specialised treatments, such as a CT scan for a head injury, would necessitate a private chartered flight to a nearby island like Guadeloupe or Martinique. This reality means that every scrape, every twist, is approached with a heightened sense of caution and a focus on meticulous on-site care. Antibiotics, for instance, might need to be conserved, and the jungle itself is far from a sterile environment. It's a constant dance between immediate treatment, monitoring, and impressing upon participants the critical importance of self-awareness regarding their well-being and limitations.

*Occasionally you can look up from the tricky descent to see the rainforest open up and reveal the spectacular views.*

Day 4: Surprises and Sustenance

Day 4 commenced with a short 30-minute bus ride back to where we'd paused on Day 3, ready to restart the trek along a broken road. My surprise for the day was a refreshing one: cold, fresh-pressed apple juice waiting at the hot springs and river pool. The subsequent section, a mere 3km uphill through dense rainforest, was affectionately dubbed "Jon's Route." This seemingly short distance took the team around 2.5 hours to complete, a testament to the brutal gradient and the thick, unyielding vegetation. Here, I met the team again, along with a few members who had opted to stick to the roads for this particularly gruelling section. The sight of fresh baguettes, the now-loved but infamous "sweaty cheese," and today's cookie and cream cake brought immediate smiles and renewed energy. The emphasis on hydration continued, with participants actively managing their electrolyte intake, a crucial factor in sustaining performance across the challenge.

Day 5: The Beast of the Challenge

Day 5. This was the tough one. Historically, only 20% of those who start the challenge complete this particular day. No phone signal, patchy GPS tracking, and severely limited extraction points characterise this undulating route, where abseiling and climbing techniques often proved more useful than traditional walking experience. The sheer remoteness and complexity meant that even my trusty 4x4 couldn't access parts of the trail. I met up with our local guide, Peter, who navigated his pickup to PS1.

Within an hour of starting, we had our first (sensible) extraction. Participants, recognising the monumental challenge ahead and their own limits, wisely decided to return to the starting section – a cool 35-minute drive from our accommodation, necessitating a swift change in logistical planning. Peter set off alone to stock PS1 and then to collect Dr. Dan and the participants who had chosen to retreat. To truly grasp the intensity of this day, consider this: the group started walking at 7 am, aiming to cover just 3km to reach PS1, with local guides estimating their arrival by 12 noon. That's right, five hours for three kilometres! As Rat Race Trip Leader James eloquently put it:

“The terrain on day 5 of Dominica Toe to Tip is relentless. Covering the Waitukubuli Trail isn’t just hiking; it’s climbing, crawling, balancing and bracing as you cover the natural obstacle course that is the jungle.

Expect to scramble your way over and under fallen trees, through waist-high roots and weave between the rocks and deadfall strewn across the narrow trails. To add to the challenge, it’s always on sheer, muddy ascents and descents. It’s a tough trail, but it’s equally beautiful, and it’s highly rewarding to see how the participants come together to support each other”

— James (Rat Race Trip Leader)

*Day 5 is the literal definition of rainforest technical trekking with vertical descent sections such as this coming amongst the heat, humidity and fatigue of the day.*

Meeting up with the team again at PS2, their faces were a mix of exhaustion, fatigue, and overwhelming joy. A quick glance revealed their muddy, cut, and scratched appearances, but the sense of achievement was unsurpassed. After a perfunctory handwash and then another with hand sanitiser – listening to the "yikes" of pain as previously unnoticed cuts were discovered – the team dug into the pit stop snacks with ferocious enthusiasm. Kaz championed the "cheese and jam" combo, James embraced the "choco biscuit, peanut butter combo," and even the usually unpalatable local bread disappeared without a trace.

As the group trekked off down the winding road, it was uplifting to hear them share their stories. Reminiscences about meeting and connecting with our warm accommodation hosts, the insightful local guides, and the friendly transport drivers filled the air. The scrummy dinners and breakfasts we had enjoyed each day were fondly recalled. These freshly minted memories were almost outshone by the incredible wildlife observed throughout their challenging journey. Forest crabs scuttled, iguanas basked, and even a few boa constrictors were spotted. Of course, the national bird, the vibrant Sisserou Parrot (Dominica's endemic Imperial Amazon parrot, Amazona imperialis), was a particular highlight when sighted, reminding everyone of the truly unique biodiversity of this "Nature Isle." According to the World Conservation Monitoring Centre, Dominica boasts approximately 202 known species of amphibians, birds, mammals, and reptiles, with 3.5% being endemic, found nowhere else on Earth. The island is also home to over 1,200 species of vascular plants, 0.9% of which are endemic.

Day 6: Snake Valley and the Final Push

The next day brought us to "Snake Valley," so named for the prevalence of razor grass – a stark reminder to keep those long sleeves and trousers on! But before that, an easy(ish) 5km through the jungle presented a rare opportunity for me to once again join the group on the trail. Around 1km out from the pit stop, with our local guides leading the way, the trail became exceptionally steep, necessitating sections of downclimbing with the aid of in situ ropes. It was a section that demanded constant concentration, teamwork, and careful footing, never fully committing but challenging enough to keep us keenly aware of our surroundings and each other's safety. Though not quite as relentlessly brutal as Day 5, this day was still tough in terms of distance, complexity, and height gain, leaving participants understandably fatigued. Conversation was more muted as we were ferried into the town of Portsmouth for our evening meal, the collective energy reserved for the journey ahead.

*Successful finish of the Rat Race Dominica Toe to Tip Challenge isn’t complete without a team photo!*

The Grand Finale: Toe to Tip!

Today, the final day, brings joyous news: the last and shortest section of the trail leads us to the very tip of Dominica, Cape Melville. There's hobbling, sweating, a few muttered curses, but most of all, smiles and tears. As participants high-five me at the finish banner and receive their well-earned medals and, best of all, a celebratory rum punch, they reflect on what has been a gruelling, week-long challenge. Dubbed the second hardest Rat Race event in their roster, Dr. Dan, our expedition medic, summed it up perfectly from his unique perspective:

“As the event medic, I love being part of these adventures and supporting everyday people as they take on something big. It’s not just about patching up blisters or checking vitals – it’s about being there while people push past what they thought they could do.

This year, I was especially inspired by Tom. At 71, he was the oldest on the team, but you’d never know it. He took on every single stage of the Dominica Toe to Tip 2025 and just kept going. That kind of grit and determination is exactly why I keep doing this.”

— Dr Dan (TrailMed Expedition Medic)

Tonight, a celebratory meal awaits under the setting Dominica sun – a feast of local food, plenty of rum, and the camaraderie forged in shared adversity. It's a time for group reflection, to acknowledge how each of us, crew and participants alike, played our part in supporting the incredible adventure of these wonderful everyday people who not only attempted but successfully completed a challenge that many would be unable to comprehend. A final shout out has to be given to our fantastic local crew members, Jon (local trail guide), Nigel (local trail guide), Kevin (driving legend), Kewin (driving legend) and Amy (not officially crew but a huge help non the less!).

The spirit of Dominica, its wild beauty, and the resilience of its people have left an indelible mark on us all.